Found myself at Ploshcha Peremohy (Victory Sq.) a few days ago, decided to check out the Circus - who knows, maybe I'll find the courage to take Marta there one day, I thought.

Quite unlikely, it turned out.

There was this sign at the entrance - "April 7-10: Exhibition/Fair" (a code name for "cheap crap on sale here"):



There was another sign there as well - "Polar Bears on Skates" - April 11, 12, 13:



Inside, it was pretty packed with people and all kinds of goods, and if it hadn't been for the disgusting elephant smell hanging in the air, it would've been hard to tell this was the lobby of the Kyiv Circus. I took only one picture there:



***

In the underground pass that takes you from the Circus to the "Ukraina" department store, there was lots of trading going on, too - as always (two old pictures are here and here):

The way they park - and drive! - on Khreshchatyk's sidewalks is SO BAD. But it's a norm by now.

In a way, it's our new "Ми разом, нас багато, і нас не подолати!" (The main slogan of Maidan 2004: "We're together, there're many of us, and we cannot be defeated!")



***

The way they park their Mercedeses on that poor flowerbed by our building sucks, too:



(Last year's picture is here.)

Kyiv is changing really fast, and it's no longer a cozy city. Construction is everywhere. A developing country's developing capital.

Here's what we see from our balcony now:





There's another monster, already completed, very close to this one (earlier pictures are here, here and here).

Try to imagine how horrible the traffic there is going to be at 9 AM and at 6 PM, once both buildings are filled to capacity with people who drive their own cars to work.

***

Two more pictures of construction from a recent walk - Saksaganskogo, near Ploshcha Peremohy:

Two more pics from Chapayev St. - there's something really poignant about both of them.

Nearly every building had this invitation to visit a farmers market on Apr. 5 - and a call to pay for utilities in a timely manner:




"To the magical, tender and beloved [women] - from the true rescuers - happy March 8!" Saw this one around the corner from the Ministry of Emergency Situations, so it must be them:

Two more pics from today's short walk:

Boris Pasternak on Chapayev Street...

Kyiv isn't getting prettier...

We're in Kyiv. So far, it feels wonderful.

***

"Kyiv needs a strong mayor" - Vitaly Klichko on the cover of Chas (not sure if it's a paper or a magazine, but it's definitely part of Klichko's campaign):

A Russian (or, perhaps, a Ukrainian, Belarusian, or Moldovan?) in Istanbul on March 14.



She was trying to figure out how to buy a jeton - and she was being so slow that a perfectly Soviet line eventually formed behind her.

Here's one of the things she asked the Turkish guy who was trying to help her:

А если ай вонт тумороу гоу?

(A yesli I want tomorrow go?)

Translation: "And what if I want to use the token tomorrow - will it still be valid?"

In general, though, since this is Istanbul, everyone involved was very friendly, including the wild-looking woman.

Not sure if anyone's noticed, but I've discovered Twitter and now post rather meaningless one-liners - and re-broadcast them from Twitter to the sidebar of this blog. All those tiny observations that I wouldn't have bothered blogging about here. Totally love it.

It's been a week since Ilyas Shurpaev's death. There are 720 messages on his Odnoklassniki.ru page now. And 241 on his last blog post. Rest in peace, Ilyas. That's what most of them say, more or less.

Channel 1, for which he worked, is a shithole. After watching part of their Sunday newscast, a dear friend made a comment that totally broke my heart: their coverage is so outrageous, so full of crap, and because of that, Shurpaev deserves no pity. Something along those lines.

There's a number of nasty comments on Shurpaev's blog, too, but it's easy to ignore them. Most seem to deal with the fact that he was Muslim and non-Russian.

But when someone you know well and love a lot switches into that ruthless LJ mode when talking to you in person - knowing full well how you feel - it does hurt.

And Shurpaev, someone I've never met and read only occasionally, felt like a friend.

Internet is such a strange place.

***

I really regret having never commented on any of Shurpaev's posts.

And I still can't forgive myself for not smiling to papa when I saw him for the last time in my life.

It's so easy, to leave a comment and to smile, isn't it.

***

On the day Shurpaev was killed, I explained to Marta that I was feeling very sad - and, can you believe it, she looked at me as if she understood and told me that she loved me. And later, when I cried watching a news report about him, she told me she adored me.

(Another test post - it's not working too smoothly, but I'll get used eventually, I hope.)

Russian answer to the "Americans are NOT stupid" video :)

tags: kinda funny, rus, video

dmitrivrubel: Ramzan Kadyrov's motorcade

tags: Chechnya, Kadyrov, kinda funny, rus, video

(A test post - I'm trying to switch from Facebook's Posted Items to something more public and am testing Diigo now.)


Марк Григорян - Стамбульский аэропорт

tags: Armenia, Istanbul, Russia, rus

A comment (RUS) by an Armenian on Russians at Istanbul airport... :)

I'm very upset about Ilyas Shurpaev's death. I've been reading his blog on and off for about half a year - some of the stuff he wrote was funny, some insightful, and he seemed like a truly wonderful person. In a way, it's like losing a friend.

I've finally finished a translation on his murder - it was tough. I spent some time re-reading his blog, and some posts were still making me smile - even though my heart kept sinking.

Here's the Global Voices text:

Russia: Two Dagestani Journalists Killed

Ilyas Shurpaev, a 32-year-old TV journalist and blogger (LJ user shurpaev), was found strangled in the apartment he was renting in Moscow Friday. (More detailed English-language media accounts of the murder are here.)

A native of Dagestan, Shurpaev had been based in Makhachkala until very recently, covering the Caucasus region for the state-owned Channel One. (A Sept. 2007 Global Voices translation featuring his observations on the situation in Ingushetia is here.) He transferred to Channel One's Moscow office a month ago.

Timur Aliev - LJ user timur_aliev, a journalist and Chechen president Ramzan Kadyrov's aide - wrote this (RUS) about Shurpaev:

[...] He was an excellent guy - witty, communicative. Lots of fun stuff on his blog - yesterday, by the way, he wrote a lot there. We knew each other mainly through LJ. Though we did run into each other once in real life - at a seminar in [Nalchik]. And for the New Year's, he sent us some gifts, through friends from Makhachkala. It's been hardly a month since he moved to Moscow, and we were congratulating him in LJ on the new job location. He had been covering all kinds of things in his native Dagestan (explosions, terrorist acts, warfare) and nothing had happened to him. And in Moscow, he got killed...

Oleg Panfilov - LJ user oleg_panfilov, director of the Center for Journalism in Extreme Situations - wrote this (RUS):

Ilyas had a book in him. And, perhaps, even more than one. He was very talented, his blog was, I think, one of the best ones in my [feed]. I recommended it to many people, although sometimes I had a problem with his loose style and "salty" words...

Most likely, they attempted to rob him, but they didn't take his laptop. I don't think it was a work-related murder, because Ilyas was a rare journalist who did the most serious stories solidly and neutrally. Sometimes, when we got together in Makhachkala, we talked about propaganda, and Ilyas, who understood perfectly well what kind of place he was working at [state TV], was making it clear that he was trying hard to avoid propaganda cliches. And he was successful in doing that...

The following exchange on Shurpaev's professionalism (RUS) took place in the comments section to Panfilov's post:

z_ari_n:

[...] he... was... a good journalist. [...]

dinrid

Then what was he doing at Channel One if he was a good journalist? In Russia, it is now practically impossible to be an honest journalist if you don't have your work published in the oppositional mass media.

oleg_panfilov:

This opinion, of course, is legitimate, too, but, first, the oppositional media also frequently have problems with objectivity, and second, the number of honest journalists and "honest" media is not the same.

z_ari_n:

I'm sorry, but this doesn't mean anything. To be a good journalist, it's enough not to be a frenzied journalist. Basically, a good journalist can work practically anywhere, as long as [he/she] is considerate and diligent.

Here is a comment (RUS) Shurpaev made on March 3 about his work and the Russian presidential election, which took place the previous day:

Watched our programming yesterday. I'm so happy I'm here in Abkhazia now, on a work trip, and am not taking part in this bacchanalia. Thanks for your attention.

Shurpaev's last blog entry (RUS) has received much attention both in the Russian blogosphere and in the media. In it, he wrote that he'd been "blacklisted" by a Dagestani newspaper critical of the republic's president:

Here we go! I'm a [dissident] now! Not sure if I should laugh or cry. I already wrote here that there's a battle going on at one Dagestani paper between its journalists and founders. The latter, according to the journalists, wanted to use them as informational killers. The potential killers [the journalists] rebelled. But all this business is way too serious and I don't understand it. But here's what blew me away. The founders came up with a list of people who it's forbidden to publish in this paper, mention them or [...] even interact with them in the newspaper's building. And there I am, in the front row! Heading the list! The funniest thing is that I've never written anything subversive for this paper - only notes on my travels, in which I did not touch upon the political situation in Zimbabwe, but just describe where I'd been, what I'd eaten and who I'd seen. I haven't taken part in the political life of the republic [Dagestan] or even of my region, because I'm lazy and, in general, I had to go to the gym and take my daughter to the movies and to the playground. And then boom! Such a turn of events... Perpaps the [newspaper's] founders know something about me that I do not know myself? Maybe I should do the "suitcase-train station-Israel" thing, so as not to become a second [Khodorkovsky]? Anyways. Matilda [a frequent anonymous addressee of Shurpaev's blog postings]! Knit me some woolen socks. Just in case. The size is 43 1/2. [...]

Among other individuals on the newspaper's "black list" was Gadzhi Abashilov, head of Dagestan's state TV. Around 8 PM on Friday, Abashilov was shot dead in the republic's capital, Makhachkala.

Timur Aliev posted some thoughts (RUS) on this murder as well:

The second murder of a Dagestani journalist in two days - now, following Ilyas Shurpaev (in Moscow), Gadzhi Abashilov has been killed in Makhachkala.

I don't know whether these two murders are connected. But here's one version (I do not possess any insider information whatsoever). Abashilov was a pro-government journalist, a media bureaucrat - head of the "Dagestan" [State TV and Radio Company]. Ilyas [Shurpaev] could have also been perceived to have ties with the government - because he worked for [state-owned Channel One] - the main federal channel. Both were on some list of journalists who had been banned from being published and mentioned in an independent (and, lately, more of an oppositional) Dagestani newspaper. Thus, they were both identified more like pro-government people.

This leads to two conclusions (of course, only in case these two murders originate from the same source) - either the opposition is retaliating, or someone wants to compromise the opposition - namely, [Suleiman Kerimov] (who has been mentioned as the newspaper's sponsor). [...]

According to media reports on the ongoing investigation, the killings of Shurpaev and Abashilov are not connected.

Over at Global Voices, there are 36 comments on a tiny item about that weird conflict between Greece and Macedonia (aka FYROM) - and 33 comments on a lovely roundup of the bloggers' views on the issue, written by Elia Varela Serra.

It's scary: nearly 70 comments, and some of them are pretty lengthy.

At the end of Elia's piece, there's one blogger's wonderful proposal "to add meaningful descriptive adjectives" to other countries' names - and some examples:

“Smallish Republic of Montenegro” (SROCG)
“Kinda Democratic Republic of Serbia” (KDROS)
“Democratic Federal and Sometimes Confederal Republic of Three Equal Constituent People and Nobody Else of Bosnia and Herzegovina” (DFSCRTECPNEBH)

People with a sense of humor are just so precious.