Sunday, November 06, 2005

Woke up from Katyusha, a WWII song, blaring on Khreshchatyk, around 10 am. Reminded me of childhood.

Today's the anniversary of Kyiv's liberation in WWII.

It's always been celebrated, rather quietly, especially compared to tomorrow's date, but now people like Natalia Vitrenko (Progressive Socialist Party) are using the day for their election campaign purposes -and after a few more songs, we heard Vitrenko's voice, telling us something about "our motherland the Soviet Union." There were people with red banners down there in the street, not too many of them, and soon they began moving over toward Maidan.



Now, an hour later, Khreshchatyk is what it's always like on weekend mornings, quiet and carless, with occasional strollers walking by slowly. Nice.
We walked down Lyuteranska to Khreshchatyk today (yesterday) and saw something we really wished weren't there: the tall, ornate, wrought-iron fence preventing vehicles and pedestrians from passing through Bankova, the street housing the presidential administration.

I went over to the police checkpoint on one side of the fence and asked the cops if it was possible to walk through to Instytutska (no) and whether the fence was there for good (yes).

This is very disappointing. Unspeakingly disappointing. And maddening.

We'd read about the fence, but hoped it'd be temporary: after all, it was making the lives of the people living nearby a nightmare, forcing those who had to use the subway to walk a few extra miles, to bypass the fenced off street.

It has also made the Chimeras House, one of Kyiv's nicest landmarks, off-limits to everyone.

In summer 1996, it was still possible to walk freely on Bankova - and not just on the sidewalk, for I remember photographing a friend of mine next to the huge 'President of Ukraine' sign at the administration's main entrance: no one said a word to us then. Later, they put up a relatively low fence along the sidewalk, making the walking area really narrow, though a bigger problem was that one could no longer admire the Chimeras House adequately: because of the fence, there was no way to make a few steps back, off the sidewalk, for a better perspective.

When the protests at Maidan began last year, it took Kuchma's people a few days to come up with an idea to block off Bankova completely and install dozens of riot police there. And that backfired, of course - for only the tyrants are erecting walls; the truly good guys are tearing them down.

Good guys like Yushchenko. Right.

After Yushchenko's victory, Bankova lasted a few months without a fence, and people used to come over to rally, or to catch a glimpse of their heroes as they were leaving the administration building.

It must've been pretty noisy, not unlike the Orange Revolution, so Yushchenko's people decided it was time to replace the asphalt on Bankova - which couldn't have been damaged in any major or minor way, since very few cars had driven over it during Kuchma's second term.

If nothing else, the repairs were a wonderful excuse for restoring the fence on Bankova.

***

It was too dark to take pictures of the fence today, but I will soon - both from Lyuteranska and Instytutska.

***

Here's part of my Nov. 23, 2004, entry - so weird to read it now...

At some point, I walked up from Maidan to the Kuchma Administration building tonight. It's located within a five-minute walk from Maidan, and yet, it feels like a different world there. Quiet - as if the neighborhood is soundproof. You wouldn't guess anything's going on at Maidan if you're based there, not even when something of this scale is taking place - a few hundred thousand people rallying, in addition to a concert...

So I decided to take a picture of the administration building - it's fenced off (always, not just now), and there was some guy standing next to the entrance, and when I pointed the camera toward him, he ordered - yes, ordered - me not to photograph there. I got a blurry picture, regardless - but that's not the point. The point is, who the fuck is he to tell me, in Russian, what to do. I'm wearing some orange, of course, so there was some logic to his behavior, considering who he's with, but still...

Very close to the administration, there were two buses with commando-looking men in them, all dressed the same, in dark-blue jackets, brand new, with neat black collars made of artificial black fur, and in black military boots. They looked quite menacing, even though they didn't say a word to me, as I passed by, on my own and wearing orange. Those guys definitely represented some kind of special forces, but they didn't carry any distinguishing marks on their clothes, nor did they have any weapons visible. They just looked weirdly out of place so close to where hundreds of thousands peaceful people were demanding a fair election and listening to cool music. They weren't some thugs brought here to riot, they were probably there to guard Kuchma from the crowd, in case something went wrong - but the look of them was still disconcerting. And that guy's obnoxious order not to take pictures just reinforced this feeling.


Here's the picture of the obnoxious guy:

Friday, November 04, 2005

A year ago, I posted this entry, about how amazingly obscure Ukraine was, a reaction to a New York Times story on the U.S. allies in the war in Iraq: everyone seemed to have been mentioned but us, even Moldova with their 12 soldiers (while we had 1,650 deployed down there at the time).

I still feel it was something of a landmark entry: some three weeks later, Ukraine was all over the news; Kyiv was awash in foreign journalists; this blog suddenly had plenty of visitors; and I had an op-ed in the New York Times and a reprint in the Guardian.

All this publicity was as stunning as the recent obscurity.

***

I do feel somewhat nostalgic for that time, a year ago, though I try to keep myself in check, to avoid turning into one of those pathetic individuals who are bent on spending the rest of their lives missing the Soviet Union...

***

I'm leaving for Kyiv tonight - packing makes me nervous, and I'm sure I'll miss Moscow a lot, despite everything.

But I hope I won't go into labor too early and will have a chance to take pictures on the first anniversary of the beginning of the Kyiv protests. We'll see.

***

For now, here are the links to my last year's Kyiv photos:

Oct. 31 (1) ... Oct. 31 (2) ... Oct. 31 (3) ... Oct. 31 (4) ... Nov. 2 ... Nov. 4 ... Nov. 6 ... Nov. 21 ... Nov. 22 ... Nov. 23 ... Nov. 25 ... Nov. 26 ... Nov. 28 ... Nov. 30 ... Dec. 22 (1) ... Dec. 22 (2) ... Dec. 22 (3) ... Dec. 25 ... Dec. 26 ... Dec. 27 (1) ... Dec. 27 (2)
Ten to 15 thousand Italians marched by the Iranian embassy in Rome last night to let the murderous dimwits know what they think about them and their dimwit ideas.

I really admire these people.

I was very moved when they marched, a year ago, to mourn those who died in Beslan, and then they named a square in Florence after the children of Beslan.

Italians totally rock!

Thursday, November 03, 2005

A Russian scammer/spammer alert!

I got a letter from an Israeli friend a couple hours ago, in which she was asking me if the guy who had sent her the following email could be trusted:

From: "Valentin" <vmik@mailrus.ru>
Sent: Wednesday, November 02, 2005 5:59 AM
Subject: Request from Russia

Dear Friend,

Please excuse me for any inconvience caused by this message.

My name is Valentin. I'm a student and I live with my mother in suburb of city Kaluga, Russia, that is 200km from Moscow. My mother is invalid. She cannot see and she receives pension from the government very rare which is not enough even for medications.

I work very hard every day to be able to buy the necessities and medications for my mother, but my salary is very small, because my studies still not finished.

Due to the crisis our authorities recently stoped gas in our district and we cannot heat our home anymore. I don't know what to do, because the winter is coming and the temperature in the street will be lower than minus 20 degrees Celsius. I'm very afraid that the temperature inside our home will be very cold and we will not be able to survive.

I applied to our local Red Cross and they said me that many people apply for help every day and they cannot help to each poor family. They adviced me to apply to the Red Cross located in Moscow, since they have more possibilities to help. I sent them a letter and they asked for documents confirming our situation. I sent the documents and within a month they answered me that they help only to the people living in Moscow and adviced me to appeal for help to private people.

Thanks to the free internet access at our library I was able to find different e-mail addresses and I decided to appeal to you with a prayer in my heart for a small help.

If you have any old sleeping bag, warm blanket, warm clothes, any portable heater, canned food, vitamins, medicines against cold, any hygiene-products, I will be very grateful to you if you could send it to our postal address:

Valentin Mikhailyn,
Ryleeva Ulitsa, 6-45.
Kaluga. 248030,
Russia.

If you think that it would be better or easier for you to help with some money, please write me back and I will give you details for sending it safely if you agree. This way to help is very good because in this case I will be able to buy a portable stove and heat our room during the winter.

I hope to hear from you very soon and I pray that you will be able to help us to survive this winter. I also hope very much that this hard situation will get better very soon in our country.

I'm sending to you many thanks in advance for your kind understanding. Please excuse me, once more, for any inconvience I could cause you by sending this message.

God Bless You,

Valentin and my Mother.
Kaluga. Russia.


I googled the guy, first in Russian, then in English.

In Russian, I found an April 18, 2000, story in Noviye Izvestia right away: in addition to the numerous letters like the one above, he and his friend also sent out a message signed by the military guys with access to some really scary missiles (SS-19 or something), who claimed their living conditions were so horrible they were prepared to annihilate several European cities, unless the Russian authorities do something to improve the situation. The FBI and the Austrian special services got involved in the investigation, along with the Russian FSB - and they found the guy pretty soon, because Kaluga is a small place with not so many internet users. He wasn't tried, however, because of his age and the amnesty that was announced later that year. (The military guys, according to Noviye Izvestia, for once received their pay on time after the incident.)

The guy continued with his business, which, according to Noviye Izvestia, was bringing him plenty of packages from the naive, kind people around the globe.

Below are some links to his letters:

- in bad German: here;

- a 2000 variation of the 'cold winter' theme: here;

- a 2002 variation of the 'cold winter' theme: here;

- a selection of letters from various years (the last one with a request to some Italians to send tapes with Italian music): here;

- a 'plea for help' message that some poor Brit (who's already packing his donation) has posted on some board (I've just sent him a letter and hope it's not too late!..): here.

***

Amazing, isn't it?

***

Update: Oh, how sad... That British guy has already sent off his parcel to Kaluga... And he is aware it's a hoax... Here's his update:

HOAX PLEA!

I received a touching email from a student calling himself Valetin from Kaluga, Russia yesterday begging for items to help him and his mother keep warm this winter. It sounded so genuine and I felt so sorry for them I did stupidly send a parcel. Oh silly me, it is just another nasty scam. These people really are the pits! I hope they sleep well at night with my favourite soft blanket, tins of soup, gloves, jumpers and vitamins!

Apparently, any parcels in Russia have a huge stamp duty slapped on them immediately they arrive there so the recipient can't even afford to collect them! God knows who will get the benefit from it then and why did my local post office not warn me of this as I explained what it was. Needs some notices up in post offices!

Thanks to all those that have emailed since saying they too nearly fell for this hoax plea. Makes me feel better that I am not the only soft touch around!

Sadly it makes us cynical about any genuine requests for help which makes for a pretty uncaring world don’t you think?

[...]

If I should hear anything back (which I sincerely doubt) as my parcel would have arrived there today I will post it up on this page.

Tuesday, November 01, 2005

I've received a Ukrainian Diaspora newsletter by email today: e-Poshta, created six years ago by Myroslava Oleksiuk of Toronto, Canada.

Most of it are stories on Ukraine reprinted from Western and Ukrainian papers (The Wall Street Journal, the Financial Times, Ukrainska Pravda, Vysokyi Zamok) and other sources (The Action Ukraine Report). There's also some advertising (Ukrainian Family Cruise: A week of fun, exploration and fellowship on a 7 day Exotic Western Caribbean cruise with Ukrainian families from across North America; From $410 (USD) per person; Tour hosts: John Kuper and Jury Krytiuk; Complete information at: www.ukiecruise.com), and a tiny share of original content. According to Ms. Oleksiuk, the newsletter's goal "is to keep the Ukrainian community and its exponents, both local and international, informed, interconnected and most importantly, proactive - politically, culturally and with respect to the media."

A nice, useful endeavor; my only problem is with the language aspect of it.

Although the newsletter is promoted as bilingual, it is not: the languages of the originals - English and Ukrainian - are retained consistently throughout e-Poshta, but no translations are provided. If the target audience were limited to the English-speaking Diaspora community, I wouldn't have any questions. However, when one aspires to reach out to "the Ukrainian community and its exponents, both local and international," one should keep in mind that a great many of those people aren't fluent in English, while some don't know Ukrainian. By the latter I don't mean the so-called Russian-speaking Ukrainians, many of whom aren't as dumb as they're often portrayed and understand Ukrainian perfectly well; I'm talking of those relatively few individuals who happen to lack Ukrainian roots but are still interested in Ukraine. Translating the English-language content into Ukrainian and the Ukrainian-language pieces into English would thus be highly beneficial.

Also, careful proofreading of e-Poshta's own Ukrainian-language content would help to avoid some potentially ridiculous situations. Here's what I mean:

The first text I read today was a letter to Victor Yushchenko by a Diaspora poet and writer Yuriy Tarnawsky. The reason I began with it isn't pretty - what caught my eye was a truly weird spelling of the president's last name in Ukrainian in the headline introducing the letter:



It looks like a transliteration from English to Ukrainian, done by someone not completely literate in Ukrainian, someone not completely familiar with the Ukrainian alphabet, someone whose first language is probably English. A second- or third-generation Diaspora someone. Maybe not.

The correct spelling of the Ukrainian president's name is this:

The sound represented by the four consecutive Latin consonants in Yushchenko's name - 'shch' - requires only one letter in Ukrainian and Russian - - not two, as the logic of transliterating from English would have it - .

Then there's also Mr. Tarnawsky's short bio - written in broken Ukrainian, with punctuation, grammar and spelling mistakes:



No one is perfect - yes, I know.

But the irony is that Mr. Tarnawsky has written to the Ukrainian president in order to complain about certain individuals' poor Ukrainian language skills.

Here's my translation of part of his letter:

Dear Mr. President!

I turn to you because of the two incidents that happened to me during my visit to Ukraine in September-October this year, the incidents which constitute a violation of the law on the use of the Ukrainian language by state officials.

On Oct. 13, I was mailing a package from the Kyiv's main post office, and to my request to address me in Ukrainian instead of Russian, operator #3, M. E. Kotyk, responded to me angrily and still in Russian, saying that she was not a Ukrainian and did not speak Ukrainian. When I asked her to call her boss, she refused to do it and acted in an offensive manner toward me.

The following day, Oct. 14, when I was settling some business at the Pechersk department of Ukroshchadbank #300012, on Istytutska St. in Kyiv, N. A. Bobyr, cashier #575, refused in a similar fashion to explain to me in Ukrainian why she hadn't satisfied one of my requests; she kept saying she didn't speak Ukrainian. When I insisted that I did not understand her explanations in Russian, she eventually screamed to me in Ukrainian what the matter was.

Her behavior toward me was, again, extremely offensive.

I am asking you, Mr. President, to hold these two persons responsible for unlawful and unprofessional behavior while they were acting as public officials.

Finally, I am forced to mention how disappointed I was on my return from the trip, disappointed with the state of the Ukrainian language in Ukraine. While in the 1990s a great majority of people I addressed in Ukrainian replied to me in the same language, this time such instances were only rare exceptions. I can't forget the shame I felt when, during the celebration of the national football team's advance into the World Cup final, at Maidan in Kyiv, the whole introduction was pronounced in Russian, and all the athletes, including coach Oleg Blokhin and captain Andriy Shevchenko, addressed the public in Russian. And of the four addresses of minister Yu. Lutsenko that I saw on TV, three were in Russian and only one in Ukrainian! My impression is that the state of the Ukrainian language has deteriorated since the Orange Revolution and your ascendance to power. I had been expecting the opposite.

[...]


I wonder if Mr. Tarnawsky, in his next letter to Yushchenko, asks the president to deny Ukrainian entry visas to Ms. Oleksiuk and the rest of e-Poshta's team, to punish them for those typos and for making a fool out of him.

Seriously, though, I wonder if Mr. Tarnawsky realizes that the two women he wants the president to prosecute are most likely surviving on $100 a month or so; that to meet many of those people who used to respond to him in Ukrainian in the 1990s he'd have to go to Moscow or to Lisbon, where they work and get paid for it, not to Kyiv and not even to Western Ukraine; that fining, firing or imprisoning a lowest-rank Russian-speaking state official isn't gonna teach him or her Ukrainian...

Also, I wonder, would Mr. Tarnawsky write his letter if these women gave him shit in Ukrainian, not Russian? As a native Ukrainian, I can attest that there are as many rude Russian-speaking people in Ukraine as there are Ukrainian-speaking - and both types are equally annoying, so much so that at some point you stop noticing what language they are using to bark at you. But you have to live in Ukraine to acquire this attitude; a short visit once a decade won't do, of course.

***

If you wish to subscribe to e-Poshta, please send an email to this address:

Myroslava_e-poshta-world-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
Another photo of Moscow strays:

Very likely that we'll be going to Kyiv at the end of the week and, if all goes well and according to the plan, I'll deliver the baby there. I'm very nervous about the move, tired of worrying about all the various little uncertainties that come with it.

***

I don't feel like writing now, so here's another bunch of backlog photos - 46 of them, from VDNKh in Moscow, July 5, 2005.



VDNKh is now called VVTs: All-Russian Exhibition Center (Vserossiyskiy Vystavochny Tsentr) instead of the Exhibition of Achievements of the People's Economy (Vystavka Dostizheniy Narodnogo Khozyaistva). This was the first time for me there - somehow, I never made it to VDNKh as a kid. Not that I regret it in any way. It's a very eclectic place now, very tacky, very surreal: a flower show dedicated to the 60th anniversary of the victory in the WWII; pavilions representing the former Soviet republics (including Ukraine), with all kinds of junk sold there (cameras, kitchen aprons, icons, honey) alongside occasional traditional 'ethnic' stuff (Armenian cognac, Kyrgyz felt hats, boots and blankets - and a beautiful silk shalwar kameez that I couldn't resist); totally modern kids rollerskating around this crazy fountain decorated with gilded statues of women dressed in national costumes of the 15 republics... Most buildings are sort of falling apart, or are just somewhat too neglected, or are used in ways other than those they were intended for - and yet they're still capable of making me imagine what it must have been like 20 or 30 years ago, how luxurious it must have looked to the ordinary Soviet citizens and those unsuspecting foreigners. A good Russian term to describe it: pokazukha, illusion of abundance - superabundance - imposed on you pretty aggressively...



***

"Elite Hats from the USA":



***

Friday, October 28, 2005

Pregnancy notes:

Didn't fit into my high winter boots two days ago. Dresses and pants I understand, but footwear?

Getting up from the couch is an exercise in weightlifting.

Was planning to go for a walk today but got really exhausted while putting the boots on; got outside and realized that it was way too slippery; also, the air's much cleaner around the ninth floor, not down there in the street; ended up going to the store and back; on the way there, I was still trying to catch my breath after the struggle with the boots.

My pants keep sliding down my belly, but that's nothing compared to my fear of shoelaces getting untied in the middle of the street.

One of my greatest irrational fears is of my waters breaking while I'm on the subway during rush hour.
PRI's The World is airing Andrew Sussman's tribute to Oleg Lundstrem today - the text is here.

My photos from that March 2004 interview are here - and I'm even mentioned in the text!..

[...]

Muscovites are hard to impress. They're big city blasé. But when I told friends I was going to see Oleg Lundstrem, the man who created tunes like Atom Boogie, they took note. Wait till I tell my Dad, said my friend Veronica. Get his autograph, Andrei advised me. And from one Western reporter, bring two notebooks. He has many, many stories and they're all great.

[...]


My papa was indeed very excited to learn that I had met Lundstrem in person; he was also very happy to see the pictures that I took, and a little video of Lundstrem talking of how he first began playing jazz - and I do hope papa still has all these on his computer, because I've somehow managed to lose the originals...

***

Oleg Lundstrem died on October 14, at the age of 89. My post about it on this blog is here.

Wednesday, October 26, 2005

Below is my three-year-old text on the Nord-Ost theater siege.



TEN-TWENTY-THREE

In times of distress, I turn to Italian pop music of the 1980s: Riccardo Fogli and Pupo have the strongest therapeutic effect on me. Passionate yet soothing, and only God knows what they are singing about in this wonderful language of theirs. Must be love, sunshine and the breathtaking blue-eyed beauties. I continue thinking my gloomy thoughts, with Fogli or Pupo serenading in the background, and then, all of a sudden, I'm happy again, or writing something too sentimental.

On October 29, it was different. In the evening, I was trying to take a break from thinking about the dead and the surviving former hostages. When I finished my second glass of red wine, I had a vision: a huge, ugly face - a blend of Putin the Sly Spy and Zyuganov the Communist Joker - almost rubbing against my cheek, grinning in this crazy, angelically ominous way. The face of Russia, I thought.

When I was about to put on the Italians CD, an unknown force diverted my hand and I ended up listening to Pet Shop Boys. Very soon, my delirious sobriety returned: less than a week since 10/23, with three Kremlin red stars and two proud Russian flags visible from my window at night, I had no other choice but to believe that a song called "The Theatre" was about Moscow, not London - about the Chechens, and not about the disadvantaged young Brits.

"...While you pretend not to notice
All the years we've been here
We're the bums you step over
As you leave the Theatre

It's another world here
Somebody is singing
I was only wishing
For a bit of cash

From a patron of the arts
Or at least the phantom of the opera
Will I catch your eye?.."

October 29 must have been marked as the Day of Revelations on some PopJunkie Saint's calendar.

***

"And perhaps 'The Theatre' could be used on a radio piece about that gay club, Central Station-2, which opened at the end of September in the 'Nord-Ost' theater's basement. There were rumors that the terrorists had hidden their explosives there and that the special forces blew up one of the club's walls to storm the besieged building."

This was an irrelevant afterthought that I shared the next day with an American journalist I was assisting, one of the few precious people who helped me keep my sanity throughout most of the 10/23 ordeal.

The first chaotic steps away from helplessly sitting guard in front of the TV, however, I took on my own. On Friday, October 25, some forty hours since the hostage crisis began and seventeen more to go before gas would be pumped into the theater, I decided to go to Red Square, where a small group of the hostages' friends and relatives was trying to hold an anti-war rally.

A Russian acquaintance called me just when I was ready to leave. Forgetting that he never missed a chance to expose my touchy-feely nature, I greeted him the only way I could then: "I hope no one you know is in there."

"Veronica, my friends aren't the kind of people who go to musicals. What about yours?" he replied.

I didn't tell him that in this particular context his words sounded almost as foolish as, "Our friends aren't the kind of people who fly planes, take subways, eat out occasionally, live in apartment blocks and walk the streets of Moscow." All I said was that there seemed to be no one I knew in there, either.

By the time I reached Red Square, the protesters had heeded the city authorities' "request" to disperse and had moved back to the "Nord-Ost" neighborhood. In fifteen minutes I, too, was walking past dozens of buses lined up from the Proletarskaya subway station all the way to where the riot police, rescuers, diggers, journalists, relatives, friends, politicians and gawkers mingled at a safe distance from the besieged theater.

A neatly dressed elderly man - small, pale and subdued - caught up with me and asked how to get to the rehabilitation center for the hostages' relatives. I knew from the news that the place - misnamed by one journalist as the "filtration" center - had been set up in a technical school nearby, but I wasn't able to guide the man. He continued walking next to me for a couple more minutes, stooping as if someone sat on his shoulders, looking so lost, so lonely. "Do you have anyone in there?" I asked, and he whispered - almost exhaled - his reply: "yes... my son... and his girlfriend."

He soon crossed the street to ask a cop for directions, and I passed the crowds and entered a maze of crumbling five-storied apartment blocks and rusty garages that surrounded the theater packed with explosives. I spent some time eavesdropping on janitors, soldiers and the locals, wondering what Putin would have done had his daughters been inside the theater, along with 800 other poor souls, of whom I felt I already knew at least two.

When the rain turned into a real distraction, I went inside a bar within, maybe, half a mile from the theater. The TV on the wall was blaring a commercial of J-7 juices (sponsor of "The Last Hero," the Russian sibling of "Survivor"): "Everybody loves their freedom, everybody loves, everybody loves their freedom!"

***

On Sunday, October 27, I was back in the "Nord-Ost" area with the American journalist. At 1:30 p.m., there seemed to be as many reporters in front of the City Hospital #13 as there were relatives of the former hostages. The majority of the rescued - the conscious, the unconscious and the already dead - had been brought here more than 30 hours before, but there were still no exhaustive lists available. Family members were not allowed inside the hospital and had to continue their despairing vigil in the cold, rainy weather. The one hour deducted out of the three and a half days of their wait - with the switch to winter time that occurred at 3 a.m. on this last Sunday of October - hardly made any difference.

Two women walked away from the crowd by the hospital gate and, finding a patch of relatively mud-free surface on the edge of a sidewalk, lit up their cigarettes. One of them, Nadezhda, was the wife of Viktor Martynov, a clarinetist in the "Nord-Ost" orchestra; the other was his sister. They had no idea whether he was in Hospital #13 or in any of at least a dozen others; they did not know if he was dead or alive. They were getting no help from the officials, and only through a network of friends was it possible to obtain bits of information, which - so far - hadn't fused into a simple and definitive answer Nadezhda and her sister-in-law were looking for. They were so drained it was hard to tell if they were in their 30s, 40s or early 50s, and there were moments when Nadezhda was choking down tears and apologizing for these lapses into emotion. I stroked her shoulder and repeated several times that everything would be fine, that she'd soon find her husband healthy and happy. I didn't have courage to say that she'd find him alive, for that would have implied that he might be dead.

The City Hospital #13 is located on Velozavodskaya St., named after a bicycle factory. Very close to it is Sharikopodshipnikovskaya St., named after a plant that produces "sharikopodshipniki," or ball bearings (defined in my Collins Dictionary as bearings "consisting of steel balls rolling between a metal sleeve fitted over the rotating shaft and an outer sleeve held in the bearing housing, so reducing friction"). The building that housed the musical (and the gay club) used to be the ball-bearing factory's cultural center. Although the area is loosely called Dubrovka, a name that conditions one to think of an oak forest, the grim industrial connotations are more resilient. It is tempting to describe Dubrovka's scenery, both before and after the hostage tragedy, as lifted out of Tarkovskiy's "Stalker" - if it wasn't for the basic attributes of a functioning magapolis: lots of people and cars.

Right across the street and a parking lot from the battered "Nord-Ost" theater, a few people were waiting for a bus at a stop that, for the past year and four days, received those from the musical crowd who chose to take subway to Proletarskaya and then switch to a bus. Three women at the stop, and their little children, watched as the cars slowed down, reaching a makeshift memorial just slightly off the road: flowers, flowers, flowers. We asked them what they thought about the war in Chechnya, and they said there was no war. One of the women said the Chechens had a propensity for warfare in their genes and then, disregarding the presence of the kids, called the terrorists "vyblyadki," a very strong word that can be translated as "the whore's children." As we talked, people with bouquets were stepping out of cars every now and then, and the flower memorial continued to grow.

In the evening, we visited one of Moscow's mosques, intending to speak with a Chechen Diaspora member about the impact the hostage crisis had had on this large and very diverse community.

On my way there, I talked with a cab driver, a young Muslim of Azeri descent. I mentioned that I had once tried to study Arabic and still remembered a line from the Quran, "Iyyaka na'abudu wa iyyaka nasta'iin" ("You alone we worship, and to You alone turn for help"). He asked me, all of a sudden: "What do you think - is it necessary to kill all non-Muslims?" I turned all the way to him and said, totally incredulous: "Are you asking me?!" And he replied, "Yes." I told him that, of course, no one should kill anyone, no matter what the clerics say, because many of them are so good at producing interpretations that fit their goals. He seemed to agree with me, saying that when his uncle was translating the Quran, he realized that the verb usually rendered as "to kill" had another, less extreme meaning. When I tried to pay my fare, he refused to take the money. But I insisted because I felt I owed him not just for the ride - but also for that little reminder that there could be some consensus and things might not be as bad as they appeared.

The Chechen man who had earlier agreed to be interviewed, was reluctant when we met him in person. Having spent a quarter of an hour waiting for him outside the mosque's courtyard, we felt it was reasonable to take no for an answer. Some of the men who gathered at the mosque that night for a Sufi group meeting kept coming in and out of the courtyard, giving us suspicious, seemingly inhospitable looks. The paranoid atmosphere of the place was reinforced by the four residential buildings that encased the mosque, fencing it off the abnormally quiet street - in the post-10/23 circumstances, this encouraged strangers like us and, no doubt, the regulars of the mosque, to imagine a zillion Russian intelligence agents watching us from every single window.

When we left the premises of the mosque, a tiny part of me was discontent: if they really had nothing to hide, I thought, why were they afraid to talk?

Halfway to the subway station, we heard steps behind us and then a male voice, calling for us to wait. We turned and recognized a young, clean-shaven man who had been around when we were waiting outside the mosque. Awkwardly, he asked about the purpose of our visit to the mosque, and I immediately thought he was an undercover Federal Security Service agent.

He agreed to be interviewed, though, and spent the next 40 minutes talking non-stop about his fear for his own life, the danger that nearly all Chechens and others from the North Caucasus were facing in Moscow, the peaceful nature of Islam that he truly believed in, the Russian ex-girlfriend he had been dating for a whole year (who initially was convinced he was a clandestine terrorist) and his numerous Russian friends (who abandoned him after 10/23). He wasn't a Chechen but an Ingush, which, in the eyes of the Moscow police and other witch-hunters, was exactly the same thing. He was 26 and very eager to escape from "this damn country." He wasn't speaking for the others who stayed behind at the mosque, and I could see how his innocent confessions could potentially get him in trouble.

Thanks to him, I realized that it would have been wrong to blame those others who chose to remain in the shade: each one of them was on his own when it came to safety, and most of them had families to care for, too.

***

I am not one of those people who think all Muslims are evil; nor do I share the minority view that Muslims are better than the rest. There was no way I could think of the Azeri cab driver and the Ingush man as some rare, unique representatives of their faith. But I was still incredibly pleased to meet them because there are times when my rationality crumbles, and these two encounters helped me restore a huge part of it.

Unfortunately, episodes incomparably smaller than 10/23 sometimes seem enough to tip over the precious common-sense balance in my head. Three weeks before the hostage crisis, I was in another cab, with another Azeri driver. When I told him I was Ukrainian, he asked if I thought it would have been better had Adolf Hitler conquered Ukraine during World War II. No way, I replied. At that time, to think that the Nazis would have treated Ukrainians better than the Communists was a horrible yet common mistake; to continue believing this in 2002 was criminal. The driver, however, turned out to be a Hitler fan: he said Hitler was a wise man who understood that because Jews were clever, they had to be exterminated.

It is always a shock to see swastikas scribbled on the walls in Moscow or St. Petersburg; it is disgusting to see the local breed of skinheads on the evening news, carrying out drunken pogroms at markets as the police are looking the other way - or are looking on, approving, not interfering.

But to meet an Azeri man praising Hitler in Moscow was like tripping over a freak show character in my own living-room. The man's jet-black hair and beard, his dark complexion and his accent made him a perfect target for Moscow's skins and cops, and yet, he sounded just like them. I asked if he was aware of that, and he shrugged rather carelessly, and replied that the kids who attack his folk at the markets are too young and ignorant, and shouldn't be taken seriously.

I wasn't going to preach humanity to this man; all I needed was to get home at the end of a long day. Before I got out of his car, though, I came up with a rhetorical question for him: isn't it better to have a country full of clever people rather than kill them all and go on living with the stupid ones?

***

This episode, obviously, has little or nothing to do with 10/23, but I do admit that sometimes I find it hard to remain rational and avoid generalizations. And I'm not the only one. The most blatant and yet, an absolutely justified, sweeping statement has been the comparison of 10/23 to 9/11.

Although the historical and political realities that had shaped these tragedies were as distant as could be, their psychological implications seemed similar. Now and then, there were people who defied despair and whose compassion for the victims was genuine and unconditional; there were also those who didn't hesitate to point out that "terror has come home" (as if it was something anyone could possibly doubt); and, of course, there were some who cheered these "acts of retribution"; and more than just a few who didn't care.

One of my flashbacks to 9/11 occurred when we were by the "Nord-Ost" impromptu flower memorial on that long, damp Sunday after the rescue operation. It reminded me of the flower mound that had grown in front of the U.S. Embassy in Moscow after 9/11 - in just one day, too. And I couldn't help thinking of that couple my boyfriend and I encountered the night of September 12, minutes after we put our flowers and took a trolleybus home: an old, mountainous Communist comrade-wife and a meek husband by her side.

There was a minor traffic jam by the Embassy (just like the one in Dubrovka), and the trolleybus was arduously advancing towards the tunnel, giving some passengers their first chance - and some their second - to see the flowers and the sad crowd. The woman - whose old-style Soviet elite polish still shimmered through - suddenly threw her hand in the direction of the Embassy and declared, "Ha! And how many people they've killed!" There was no passenger reaction to her outburst and, encouraged, she said something nasty again before disembarking at the next stop. I remember the rest in slow motion: my boyfriend almost crashing the window with his middle finger, me hypnotically doing the same, the old docile man remaining unmoved and the woman responding with a dignified Russian equivalent of the "up yours" - a fist with the thumb stuck between index and middle fingers. Then they walked away - most likely to their once-luxuriant apartment in the very center of Moscow, acquired with the help of millions upon millions of the Gulag dead.

***

I am not one of those people who expect everyone around to feel what I feel and do it in unison with me: life is much more complex than a universal switch to winter time at 3 a.m. October 27. But I hate it when someone disrupts my grieving spells the way the woman on the trolleybus did. After 9/11, I've learned to dodge certain people and certain authors for the time it takes me to recover, though occasionally I do get hit.

Early morning on October 27, still feeling it was late at night on October 26, I absent-mindedly clicked on a Reuters story, headlined "Chechnya Peace May Be Casualty After Moscow Raid." Somehow, the headline didn't seem contradictory right away. But then I read the lead, which I did find ambiguous: "Russia counts the cost Sunday of the bloody end to a theater siege by Chechen rebels, but the chief victim could be peace in the Muslim region of Chechnya." What peace, I thought, and if there was any indeed, why saving a few hundred people would affect it?

The story had been posted 16 minutes before I opened it, so there is a chance Reuters provided some clues later. But I haven't seen any follow-up headlines preceded by the word "CORRECTION," nor was I really looking for them. I just went back to grieving for all those who died, got hurt and were still searching for their dear ones, as well as for those innocent people who were likely to suffer in the aftermath of 10/23 all over this country.

A few weeks later, when I toughened again, I visited Reuters' web page to learn about the agency's editorial policy, written by Stephen Jukes, Head of News, and last updated in April 2002. I found out that Reuters journalists did not "voice their own opinions" ("No, never.") and that their "news stories [were] sourced very clearly and precisely to enable readers and viewers to form their own judgment." (I did form mine, even though I was unable to locate any explicit attributions for the nonsensical lead statement.)

Reuters also claimed to be "committed to reporting the facts and in all situations avoid the use of emotive terms." I did agree that it was an established fact that "Putin has long linked so-called international terrorism to the problem in Chechnya where rebels have been battling on and off since 1994 to break from Moscow's grip" - but whoever wrote this sentence had been guided by emotions and, perhaps, a hope that the editor was dozing off at the moment. (And I am not referring to the "so-called international terrorism" part - I understand that by now, Reuters must be really tired of all those who believed that the World Trade Center and the Pentagon had been attacked by terrorists and expected this reliable news source to confirm their impression. I know that they are following "a long-standing policy to avoid the use of emotive words," and that's why they "do not use terms like 'terrorist' and 'freedom fighter' unless they are in a direct quote or are otherwise attributable to a third party." But isn't the phrase "Moscow's grip" too figurative to be considered non-emotive?)

The story ended with a quote from Dominique de Villepin, French foreign minister, who did use the T-word as discreetly as if he had studied Reuters' editorial policy page: "I believe one must distinguish between things: terrorism, which is reprehensible in all its forms and wherever it might be, and crises which genuinely call for the search for a political solution. This is clearly the case in Chechnya, we've said it for years[.]"

Yet, the reporter's dissent was irrepressible and pushed him (or her) to introduce the quote as "a voice of criticism" that "[would] have given [Putin] a rude awakening." My judgment here is that this prophecy might or might not have come true, but the editor sure did find much stuff to fix when he (or she) awoke.

And somehow, I sympathize with the reporter, especially when I remind myself of what Ryszard Kapuscinski, a renowned Polish war correspondent, once said about "the horrors of a press agency writer" in a Granta (#21: The Story-Teller) interview: "...these anonymous markers of events, these terrible victims of information, working day and night in the worst of all possible conditions."

To end this brief review of the so-called neutral coverage on a good note, here is the beginning of an October 24 piece from the Istanbul-based Agency Caucasus: "Action is carried by Barayev the dead man. Russia had claimed to have killed him. Chechen sources said that the action is carried by Movsar Barayev. Moscow movie raiders asked Russia to pull out from Chechnya."

They did not demand, they just asked.

Perhaps Reuters could learn something about truly dispassionate reporting from their Caucasian colleagues, and in return offer them some tips on the English grammar, and a few more on untangling all those confusing facts. (I can't resist offering one clarification: Movsar Barayev was a nephew of Arbi Barayev, a notorious kidnapper killed in summer 2001. Allegedly, among the ruthless uncle's victims were four Western telecom engineers beheaded in 1998, as well as numerous Chechens; allegedly, he collaborated with the Russian Special Forces; and, allegedly, many Chechens hated his guts.)

***

Anna Politkovskaya is no match for Reuters. She may be closer to Ryszard Kapuscinski who, in that same Granta interview, said that his condensed news agency stories always had counterparts that "[expressed] what I actually felt, what I lived through, the reflections surrounding the simple news story." But his writing covered much of the turbulent world, while Politkovskaya's stories do not even embrace the whole of Russia. They are limited to Russia's self-inflicted wound, Chechnya, which has been bleeding all over the place for the past decade.

Politkovskaya has so far dissected an incredible expanse of Chechnya's tissue, following blood streams from the battlegrounds in Grozny to the refugee camps in the neighboring Ingushetia; from the army barracks in Daghestan to the offices of corrupted generals in Moscow; from the war zone nursing homes to the out-of-the-way homes of bereaved families of the missing Russian soldiers.

She doesn't seek to be in the spotlight but gets caught in it anyway: either through her noble initiatives to help the most miserable among her sources, or through the government's clumsy yet menacing attempts to silence her. The last time she drew everyone's attention was during the hostage crisis, when the Chechen terrorists named her as one of those they would have liked to negotiate with.

Hours after Politkovskaya had arrived in Los Angeles to receive a Courage in Journalism Award from the International Women's Media Foundation, she had to start planning her trip back to Moscow. Around noon Thursday, October 24, a Russian TV channel arranged a live phone conversation with her, and she explained that at the moment she was having problems exchanging her Delta ticket for an earlier date. I thought that was so ridiculous, having to worry about tickets when the lives of nearly 1,000 people were at stake. And only when my American colleague and I visited Politkovskaya at her Moscow apartment ten days after 10/23, did I understand that the time difference, not red tape, had been to blame: it was the middle of the night when the news of the siege reached LA, and many people were asleep.

Smiling ironically, she told us how she had wanted to see Hollywood and the celebrities' mansions while she was in California. That was when I first caught myself feeling as cozy and ordinary as if I were sitting in the kitchen with my landlady: a daughter greeting us at the door; a son stopping by briefly to say hello to us and tell his mother he was off to work; a dear old Doberman, so excited about the guests that we all worried he might have a stroke. But Politkovskaya then began telling us how hard it had been to think of something to write in the note for the award ceremony she was going to miss, and I knew I was back in the kitchen of a woman whose magnitude was close to Andrei Sakharov's.

In her LA note she wrote: "...I have always believed that Russian journalism, first and foremost, is the journalism of action. The journalism of taking the step that you simply must take. Please pray for us, those who are directly affected by this crisis. And of course, say a prayer for me. I am ever more convinced that the war in Chechnya must be brought to an end. And today, the time has come for me to appeal to President Bush and plead with him to use his influence on President Putin to stop the bloodshed in Chechnya, and to prevent it in Moscow."

Back in Moscow, she did meet with the terrorists, and with some of the hostages, and she returned to the "Nord-Ost" building a few more times that day, October 25, carrying boxes of juice for the people inside. Journalists and firefighters contributed their own money to buy the first portion of juice; later - almost too late - the government decided to participate, too. (Some of the J-7 juice must have seeped inside the theater, while some of us, outside, were musing over the deeper meaning of the brand's slogan: "Everybody loves their freedom.")

In Politkovskaya's kitchen, we drank tea and did not talk about October 25 - by that time she had already described her errands in the bi-weekly Novaya Gazeta and other publications. She told us about the people she knew among the hostages: her daughter's 24-year-old friend, a "Nord-Ost" orchestra member; her own childhood friend with her family. The young musician survived, and Politkovskaya published an interview with him later; her friend lost her son and husband, and Politkovskaya attended the double funeral, and wrote about it, too.

My colleague asked her about the current racist moods in Moscow, and Politkovskaya confirmed that they were on the rise. Regardless of whether we want it or not, she said, the hostage crisis has only made it worse for all those who've been demonized by the media and the President, those who are routinely called "the blacks" here. Two weeks on, in mid-November, she published the first two stories of a series documenting the newest wave of anti-Chechen abuses in Moscow.

It is a purely post-Soviet phenomenon that the war in Chechnya is nowhere near the end and the discrimination against Caucasians is rampant all over the country - all despite Anna Politkovskaya. Her brave reporting is easily accessible in print and on the Internet; her astonishing book, "A Dirty War: A Russian Reporter in Chechnya" (Harvill Press, London, 2001) is available not just in its English translation but in Russian as well. Her stories cannot have but the most profound impact, and yet, no major changes seem to occur.

***

Chapter 7 of Politkovskaya's book, "Ingushlag: A New Concentration Camp," is about the Chechen refugees in Ingushetia. On October 27, 1999, three years before 10/23, a group of them was watching Russian missiles swish by, one after another, high in the sky. "Why do they continue firing missiles into Grozny after the tragedy in the Central Market? Each missile immediately hits a great number of people. That many fighters never gather in a single place, even our children know that. So it's genocide," said Mir Khadjimuratov, a 25-year-old refugee from Grozny. "And those who didn't want to fight are now ready to."

If it hadn't been so obvious, it might have been a prophesy.

Politkovskaya told us that the Moscow hostage crisis would make some people finally notice the correlation between terrorism and the Army's brutal methods of conducting the second Chechen campaign. One of the "Nord-Ost" producers and a former hostage, Georgiy Vasilyev, went even further, calling what had happened a horrible "educational action."

He said that many of those who came to see a musical about "the great Russian history" - highlighting exploration of Siberia and the heroic deeds of the Soviet army during World War II - ended up learning a few facts from the history of Chechnya. In the 57 hours of the siege, their female captors, wrapped in explosives, shared tales of the Russian-Chechen wars of the 19th century, the deportations of 1944 and the more recent tragedies of the Chechen people. Vasilyev's attitude towards war in Chechnya hadn't changed: he had been opposed to it before 10/23, and he was still against it.

He spoke at a press conference October 30, after the funerals of Arseniy and Kristina, two teenage "Nord-Ost" actors who hadn't survived the rescue operation. We gathered in a room from which the musical's team, four days earlier, had been contacting Moscow hospitals and later, when all hope vanished, Moscow morgues. A bottle of Novopassit, a tranquilizer, still remained on a window-sill.

The young actors didn't die at the hands of the terrorists, Vasilyev said, but were killed by those who were trying to rescue them. However, had the terrorists not taken them hostage, Arseniy and Kristina - and the rest of the dead - would still have been alive. He said he wouldn't have wished to be in command of the rescue operation, for one needed immense courage to take responsibility for the lives of so many people. He thanked God at the end of the press conference - not for having survived, but for having been one of the victims. "And the feeling of guilt," he added, "will stay with me for the rest of my life."

Politkovskaya remembered one man among the hostages she'd been allowed to see on her first trip into the theater: he kept recounting things that the people inside needed most and, as he was being led away by the terrorists back to the auditorium where all the hostages were held, he continued shouting requests to her. "They tried to shut him up but he just went on and on," she said. "It was very brave of him." Later, when she saw him on TV, she realized the man was Georgiy Vasilyev.

Vasilyev said that although the female terrorists did not treat hostages with explicit cruelty, their male counterparts were quite fierce at times, and all seemed ready to die. Their determination did not become obvious immediately, however, and many hostages were able to maintain some of the casual attitude for a while, referring to the terrorists' leader as Mozart instead of Movsar, a name that at first sounded too foreign to remember.

But as Vasilyev furtively watched the masked people set up the explosives, he knew they were all doomed. The constant screech of Scotch tape used to keep the devices together served as just another chilling reminder to everyone. Moreover, Vasilyev managed at one point to start a conversation with a widow-terrorist seated nearby. It turned out to be easy, he said: he just asked her to translate the Arabic words on a black banner that had been placed upon the stage. She explained it was a prayer, and then confessed that she liked the way he was preparing for death. Eventually, the woman gave Vasilyev a piece of paper with a prayer scribbled on it in Arabic. She said that if he learned it by heart, he would be received in paradise as Muslim.

***

Before leaving the room in which Vasilyev's press conference had taken place, I stopped by a message board and, holding my breath, read the "Nord-Ost" casualties list.

Eighteen names; one of them - Viktor Martynov, a clarinetist, born in 1963, not yet forty. I still cannot get his wife out of my mind. His widow.

But life goes on. At least, this is what one talk show host said on October 25, roughly 12 hours before the rescue operation and around the time Politkovskaya was delivering the freedom-loving J-7 juices to the hostages. Life goes on. And if it did then, it surely does now.

The remnants of the "Nord-Ost" troupe began rehearsing for two commemorative concerts shortly after all their dead had been buried. A few newspapers reported that the Russian Special Forces were planning to wrap the terrorists' bodies in pig skins and bury them that way, to make sure they wouldn't be clean enough to go to heaven. Putin toughened up and famously invited all who wished to become "radical Muslims" to come to Moscow for circumcision, after which "nothing will grow back."

The now-elderly Italian pop stars of the 1980s (Riccardo Fogli and Pupo among them) arrived here one month after the 10/23. Too late to have a soothing effect on me; too early to lure me into a crowded concert hall; so I ended up skipping their show.

And I still do not know whether the old man's son and his girlfriend survived. I doubt I'll ever find that out.
Today's photos from the Dubrovka theater are here.

(I didn't make it to the memorial service; I walked there after seeing my doctor - the clinic isn't too far away.)

Today's BBC story is here.





Tuesday, October 25, 2005

First snow in Moscow, today...

Monday, October 24, 2005

I'm dealing with my photo backlog again: this time, I've posted 43 photos from a day trip to the town of Korolyov that I took on July 6, 2005.



Korolyov, named after Sergei Korolyov, the renowned Soviet spacecraft engineer, is referred to as naukograd - which can be roughly translated as 'scienceville.' It's located about 20 minutes away from Moscow, and there's a very convenient bus service available from the VDNKh subway station.

The primary reason I went to Korolyov was that we'd just returned from Turkey then - and I really, really hated to be back. Normally, when I'm feeling this way, I like to spend some time pretending I'm just a tourist here: all the shit that I feel I'm doomed to spend the rest of my life in turns into something very temporary as soon as I switch into the tourist mode; I regain curiousity; I'm capable of seeing things again and finding them wondrous enough to enjoy. Sometimes this happy state lasts several weeks, sometimes - only a few days; I suspect it depends on how much energy I have to drag myself around, looking for the stuff I haven't seen yet or recently. (Another way to describe it: this is my way of being in denial.)

While in Korolyov, I was planning to visit Marina Tsvetayeva's dacha museum in Bolshevo, formerly a village, now part of Korolyov: this was a justification of the trip for the more alert part of me, the one that doesn't buy any of this 'tourist' escapism bullshit, but doesn't really mind cooperating, playing along.

***

Korolyov felt so-not-like-Moscow: small and sleepy, rather green.

It felt so very anachronistic - especially when I ran into a store selling moskovskiye tovary, Moscow goods. (Those who lived outside Moscow in the Soviet times, but did have a way to slip in every now and then, would know the feeling I'm talking about.)



***

It felt like a different planet, too: only two old women knew where Tsvetayeva's museum was - and a few young ones that I asked for directions looked like they had no idea who Tsvetayeva was... (The museum turned out to have been closed since 2000.)



***

A bus stop at the edge of town, called Zhiliye Doma - "Residential Buildings"...



***



***

As I was taking this picture of the shoe-box garages in front of a "residential building," a man and a woman approached me and asked why I was photographing their garage... I think it turned me speechless for a while, and I felt like a spy, too, very uncomfortable. My reply was truly idiotic: I told them I found the garages beautiful (I just didn't have the guts to tell them the truth, to admit that the garages were hideous, beautifully hideous). The couple looked at me just like anyone else would in this situation - poor crazy pregnant girl, probably spent too much time in the sun; the woman said she thought the garages were ugly as hell, and they walked on home.



***



***

And, according to Gazeta.ru (in Russian) and Channel 5, Valentyna Semenyuk, head of the State Property Fund, has resigned today.

Recently, the Socialist Party of Ukraine, on whose quota Semenyuk had been appointed head of the State Property Fund, called her to resign and this way to protest privatization of Kryvorizhstal [...]. Socialists insist that the plant should remain the property of the state.


Yesterday night, Semenyuk was hospitalized with high blood pressure. She did issue a decree, though, which allowed her first deputy, Oleksandr Bondar, to sign papers necessary for today's sale.

Tatyana Korobova wrote this in one of her recent columns (in Russian):

[...] while the state, acting through the State Property Fund, guards this state property - runs Kryvorizhstal, that is - the head of the [State Property Fund], Valentyna Semenyuk, controls four intermediary companies that have stuck themselves to the [Kryvorizhstal] plant. [...]